Thoovanam Falls - Trekking in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

Dhuvanam waterfalls(Amaravathy range, Anamalai Tiger Reserve)

The first time I came across this name was through SUBHA J. RAO's article in The Hindu "Go trekking on Nature's trail - The Hindu". Inspired by her article (her articles on travel have been a source of constant inspiration to me and my wife and set us on many an expedition. I take this opportunity to thank her for the same) i went to amaravathy in feb-2009  and met the Ranger. Unfortunately my trip coincided with that of the Conservator of Forest, Anamalai Tiger Reserve. Everyone in the range was busy attending to him and his needs and they couldn't spare a guide for me. I stayed overnight in Udumalpet, came back in the morning and tried my luck. The ranger flatly refused to give me a guide and i had to return home disappointed.

Later I came to know that Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary was offering accomodation and  trekking to thoovanam falls as part of its ecotourism intiative. Intially I assumed the trek was to the same falls but from the kerala side, but only later did I learn that this was a different falls altogether. Dhuvanam is in TN created post the confluence  of Chinnar and Pambar. Thoovanam is in kerala created by pambar much before it joins chinnar. 

The Dhuvanam waterfall in the Amaravathy PHOTO: K. ANANTHAN(Source The Hindu)

+shiyas babu   had shared snaps and videos of thoovanam falls, he had taken during his reconnaissance trip of chinnar. It re-ignited my interest on the falls and  we had squeezed in a day trip  to thoovanam falls in our schedule. Even during our current chinnar trip we paid a visit to Amaravathy range office hoping to get permission to visit Dhuvanam, Unfortunately he was not around. We waited for over an hour and had to return disappointed.

Alampatty and Thoovanam Trek

From chinnar we headed to Alampatty another tribal settlement inside chinnar wildlife sanctuary, midway between marayoor and chinnar. Alampatty tribals manage the ecotourism treks to the famous dolmens site and thoovanam falls. The only guide available was a boy in his late teens. We set forth on our trek path immediately. Hardly 100 meters into the trek a huge gaur was blocking our path, our teen guide initially mistook it for an elephant and had to be quickly corrected. With more gaur movements on the river to the left, the best possible option was an about turn and we took it immediately with our guide leading the retreat. Then we took a more circuitous route and descended towards thoovanam falls.

The famous Kandhari Chilli  is one of the key forest produce here

It was downhill all the way, as gravity did most of our work, we rattled along at a decent pace. The path ran along a stream right through . We had to cross the stream  to move back to the original path, it was easy at that time of the year but can be difficult during the monsoons.

The Stream Along the Trek Path

We could hear the roar of the water from far, almost a km before. But still we were surprised by the force of water when we first sighted it.

First View of Thoovanam falls

We finally reached thoovanam falls about an hour after we started. The sheer force coupled with the dangerous rocks means we couldn't get too close. So we walked around slowly taking in the spectacle.

 Getting this close the waterfall is impossible during the monsoon.

Thoovanam log house is bang next to the waterfall. The setting is superb,but wonder how one can sleep so close to the thunderous waterfall.

Thoovanam log house

While I was busy walking all around, +shiyas babu wisely spent all the time resting. Having done this trek before he knew he needed all the energy for the steep climb that awaited us.On the return journey we were forced to take a few breaks with too many factors(afternoon sun, hunger and gravity) working against us. 

Viper vs Guide

On one such break our young guide saw a viper under a rock close by. Our guide, determined to capture it on his mobile was going closer and closer, the viper kept on retreating under the rock. Suddenly the viper lost patience and charged at us,completely taken by surprise we ran. The viper chased till it felt it sure it had proved its point, and slithered back under its rock. After the initial shock, we recovered and started catching it all on camera. 

Time for Goodbye

It took us an hour and a half to reach Alampatty. After a mouth watering Maggi at the stall run by the tribals, we said our goodbyes to each other, promised to do one more trip together and set off in opposite directions. It was mission accomplished as far as thoovanam falls was concerned, but the desire to see dhuvanam is still strong. Hopefully someday, some ranger will be more kind and make dhuvanam happen.